I think it depends what you want out of the denim shirt. Some like that sturdiness, while some dislike it and have a hard time breaking in corodovan shoes and getting them comfortable due to this, a bit depending on how sensitive your feet are. Hi Simon, Though, with all the fats in the leather I have never found it necessary to administer shoe cream or polish. Same on the eyelets. https://www.crockettandjones.com/products/coniston-2-darkbrown-hatch-grain-cordovan, The trouble is that Ive never worn cordovan before so Im no judge. Since I had them resoled with R. double soles they are still going strong. In addition to its durability, shell cordovan also stretches less than other leathers. The leathers do vary between pairs Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. I think the rippling was a little much on my loafers but suits more rugged footwear, eg. They have burgundy, dark brown and black Lovely though the Aldens look, the associated hassle and inflated costs of getting them over the pond are significant deterrents for now. Sam: Its due to the material sort of rubbing against itself when creasing, which breaks the surface of the shell. How do you get your Aldens resoled? Would they go to the informality of jeans or would they be too smart? Simon, I have approx. Its a little hard to say on the value I think theyre both decent value for what you pay in the US, though Allen Edmonds isnt what it was. Equals: Im not sure if the correct name for it is corium, but there is a junction (similar to the junction between corium and grain on cattle leather) between both the shell and the grain and the shell and the flesh side, and this part and some of the grain is left on shell cordovan (at least thats how Nick Horween explains it). So, you wont have to worry about it dying the shell a different shade. Before it bloom, yes its pretty easy to take care of it, once it starts to bloom takes too much time after a downpour vs. calf. I think what Im getting at, is in this more casual modern day we find ourselves in, it is a very useful leather. Try to keep the rest a little smart too eg a white oxford and navy or mid-grey crewneck. You might like it as much as some other folks do. However, Alden also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper. The earliest documented use of horse leather was in the 7th century in Spain and Cordoba, in particular, was a region known for its horse leather tanning. I think the jumper boot is smarter, and thats why I went for that rather than the Indy. I can wear these in the smartest of corporate/legal office environments in Manhattan and they are often the most appropriate and nicest looking shoes in the building. I generally struggle with CJ loafers (only come in one width standard), as I have to go up in size to accomodate my wide forefoot, which leads to a shoe that is a bit too wide at heal. do you think the full strap in calf is easier to wear in and adapts faster? I myself have never seen a Barrie lasted loafer from them. I would say in terms of versatility. As a long time fan of both Alden and Cordovan, Im glad to see youre a convert. Yes, Ive seen that and it is a nice design. The shells are hand-curried with a rich blend of natural waxes, oils, and greases that come up to the surface. Do Not use heat to dry wet Shell Cordovan leather. All my other pairs are dark brown suede or traditional calf (black/brown). Thanks Finally, its worth noting that cordovan differs a lot depending on from who you purchase the shoes, and of course from which tannery the cordovan comes from. And why specifically deer bone? 8 by any chance? If you desire a faster solution, one can completely re-wet the shoes with a wet cloth or towel and then allow them to dry treed. The color can always remain more consistent with proper shoe polish, if youd like. Does the colour 8 vary that much from pair to pair? Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Anthony Jones: As long as you are aware of the cons, but still think the pros weigh over, give it a try. Cleverley made me some boots with cordovan around the bottom and a hatch grain calf at the top. These are narrow, yes, and I do plan to try stretching them. And I do like tassels, which is largely personal. I think that your review was not that favourable but I think that they have a fantastic shape and combination of materials and sole. I mean, I see cons, but what exact reasons of yours? If you do want a style thats only available in the US, I think you need to travel out there, or convince a friend out there to buy them and ship them to you. Is it in general or specifically their cordovan? Later, you can then brush them off, followed by a thin layer of protective cream polish, rubbed into the shell, and a thorough brushing. What would you replace that Saphir recolorant with? Hi Simon, I think the classic penny from Alden is on the Van last, not Barrie. The production of Horween's Genuine Shell . Ive been retired for a few years. Crockett & Jones Harvard loafers: Review, Shoes in wet weather: The best ways to prevent rain damage, https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, https://thearmoury.com/products/hudson-tassel-loafer?variant=32131236102215, https://dieworkwear.com/2018/09/06/the-sophisticated-black-tassel/, https://www.paraboot.com/en/men/boat-shoes/barthmarine-marron-america, https://www.brogueshop.com/collections/shell-cordovan-1/products/alden-x-brogue-ruby-hill-boot-1, https://thearmoury.com/products/the-armoury-by-nigel-cabourn-5-pocket-denim-jeans?variant=17728986677319, https://therealmccoys.com/collections/bottoms/products/001xx-washed, this article on shoes with brown trousers. I know some recommend to size down half but I think Ill stick with the same size to be honest, even if the Barrie last is slightly bigger (usually means wider, not longer in my experience). The color 8 is my favorite but I cant wait to a pair of long wing bluchers in whiskey SC. Do you think these in Dark Cognac cordovan would work with something like grey flannels as the top end of the formality scale? Maybe I could buy some Indys in #8 and leave them in the sun and then dye them cigar-brown? Ashland Leather Co. 6.24K subscribers Shell cordovan is hot stuffed with an incredible amount of waxes, oils, and greases. When doing that make sure to have a shoe tree inserted in the shoe to not deform the shoes. Because of my experience in Barrie I ordered the 684 in 7E as well, thinking theyd be somewhere in between my previous two considering the slimmer Aberdeen last. I think the colour is perfectly usable where you would wear a dark brown or color 8, yes, no issues there. Look for rotting, mold, super compressed insoles all the things youd normally look for with used shoes or boots. Yes, Van is wider so theres a lot more room in there, though I didnt find going a half size down worked for me that made the loafer too short on the toes. Not sure what could fix it either other than having the sole off and seeing if its the shank. Thanks! Cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf. E.g. Should be an easy ship across the pond. Kind of difficult to find a store and compare by myself in my area. Hi Jesper. I also noticed that the lining leather wore out very quickly. Shell Cordovan is a very specific type of leather that comes from the shell membrane of a horse butt. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Prototype meaning that its not available on BHL just yet? And they can both be brushed out. 3. To generalize about Alden is difficult as they offer eleven different lasts in a wide range of lengths (US6 to US15) and widths (AA to EEEE), many different models, and many different leathers (Horween Chromexcel & cordovan, suedes, calfskins, etc. @Ross I assumed that you thought about stretching the width of these shoes (and not the length Perhaps you didn`t need to? What do you think? Looking for suggestions and guidance. Someone made this comment above Alex. If I remember correctly, you wear US 9E in EG 184 last. I havent found that much to be honest. Ive seen and worn many shoes over the years that were called burgundy, oxblood, or something similar, but I always felt they had nothing to recommend them over black or brown. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. No, I find the same size works well on everything for me. The second pair produced by a well respected British manufacturer were rubbish. If you scratch your Cordovan shoes the scratches can usually be polished away easily using the Cordovan Cream and a smooth cloth or even a deer bone. Once you had checked off that first box of Goodyear welted shoes, whether it was the Red Wing Iron Ranger or the Alden Indy boot, the next step in the ascension toward shoe collection mastery was a pair of shell cordovan shoes. Perhaps better if the toe cap was unbrogued or just a plain toe, or if the edges were dressed a little darker? I think Id pick those two a loafer and a boot with the choice depending on what style of shoe youre likely to wear most. I am inclined to pick black having looked at your black cordovan which one would you pick if you were me? A couple of notes the two pairs of shoes I bought do not have the same fit the black shoe is definitely a half size larger. And it can look great! You want to keep them in a dry and clean environment. (This is not a feature of the shoe a sort of suede and cordovan shoe. I had been trying to buy some Alden Indy boots in cigar shell and for months none appeared on eBay, Grailed or Styleforum. Hi,Simon Crocodile is my favourite but can be fiercely expensive.but I dont feel the need to tell people when wearing them !!! Some water spots become more difficult to remove if you dont address them quickly. they are easy to take care of and Alden refurbishment is well worth it. Loafers in France are usually either elongated in the Italian style, or chunky (boxy ?) I live in topsiders during the summer months and these also seem to have strong ties to the Northeastern United States. Colour 8 does. Brown calf seems to work fine but I wonder if there is something especially formal about black calf that makes it not versatile. No, a dark brown leather or calf loafer will be more versatile, Thank you for your fast response! Also like the colour 8 shade that only comes from Alden. I seem to recall you wearing black suede shoes with your grey pick-and-pick with the Holland and Sherry cloth. Theres no rule here just bear in mind that its a more casual material. I purchased them at Neiman Marcus in San Francisco during a close-out at a substantial discount about 10 years ago. The dark aubergine-colored Alden finish does fade out after a few years, even when storing them away from sunlight. Obviously, they have both been resoled. You may be the only person on the net with good information on Cordovan! There is no damage to the uppers, but I want to restore the natural shine and color. Fair enough, thanks! Brush, vigorously, for several minutes using a horsehair brush. This means it will not polish. Ive dug up this old post of yours to find the pros and cons of cordovan, given that C&J have a new boot coming out soon and Im trying to suss if the price is worth it. Not trying to be a snob! Thank you and much appreciate it! I know its fine for the vast majority of makers and people, but that doesnt necessarily mean it will work for him and you. I was thinking of the boots with Barrie. Do you think that the cordovan loafer are as versatile as a pair of brown loafer? The aforementioned techniques with a bone or spoon can help smooth over rough scuffs on the surface of shell cordovan. I have two pairs of Cordovans from Vass. Bought one years ago and if I apply it like in the Jesper article the only thing I get is get scratches. , I think you might find cordovan more satisfying Brian, and easier to wear with jeans and slacks too, Thank you Simon. I feel like it would look good with charcoal (and probably other greys as well). Even though I noticed that the Aldens are slightly wider/more roomy when compared with my EG`s especially in the heal area. Really? Next time youre in NY it might be worth the 2 hour flight to Atlanta to visit Sid Mashburns flagship store here. 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